Nov-16 | Socio-Economic | Health | Enironmental | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
Asia | 76 | 58 | 65 | 108 |
Europe | 285 | 210 | 293 | 465 |
North America | 540 | 381 | 527 | 862 |
Latin America | 57 | 55 | 44 | 77 |
Africa | 13 | 17 | 16 | 27 |
Oceania | 31 | 14 | 20 | 46 |
Author Archives: mkrysl
Highway 61 Revisited – Memphis and Clarksdale
Here are the highlights from my first day of travel.
Alcenia’s – Memphis
I found this Memphis soul food restaurant doing a casual search on the Diners, Dives and Drive-Ins website. I was actually looking for another place I had visited a few years ago called the Cozy Corner. Alcenia’s, topping the alphabetical list of Memphis restaurants, looked very interesting and it seemed like a better choice than repeating an experience I had already had.
The place was easy to find, it’s essentially at the base of the Memphis pyramid building. I had fried chicken because it’s Tuesday (the daily lunch special). While the food was fantastic, it was the spirit of the place that really stayed with me. The owner, a cheerful woman named BJ, came bounding out from the back to greet me shortly after I sat down. She gave me a hug and kiss and welcomed me to her place. I told her where I was from and she asked me to sign her guest book. Apparently she treats every customer this way. Unfortunately, she was very busy and she disappeared before I had a chance to ask her if I could take her picture.
Highway 61 Revisited – The Plan
I’ve had an idea for a trip brewing in my mind for several years now. A trip through the south that includes highways and places that have been important to me from a variety of cultural references – places that have shown up in music and literature that have stayed with me over the years and made me, for one reason or another, want to see them. After putting it off repeatedly, I’ve finally embarked on that journey today.
I plan to spend a week on the road, leaving the last leg of the trip open. I try to do that when planning each trip so as keep myself from becoming too regimented and destination-focused.
This trip will take me through rural Mississippi on Highway 61. As a highway, whose towns and locales are the birthplace of the Blues, Highway 61 is almost as legendary as Route 66.
After a few days in New Orleans, I will head west into Texas via Highways 190 and 12. This is one of the routes followed by Sal and Dean in Jack Kerouac’s On The Road. They depart late at night and head for the West Coast after visiting with Old Bull Lee (William S. Burroughs) in Algiers. It’s my favorite passage in the book and, like Sal and Dean, I plan to travel it at night.
I’ll find somewhere to sleep in Beaumont, TX — or thereabouts — and then plan to spend a day with my daughter and grandson in Houston. My son in law was transferred there for at least 6 months and they are moving down there this weekend.
Finally, I’ll spend two days in Austin, capital of weirdness in Texas and one of the music capitals of the world.
The last few days will probably take me through Hot Springs, AK and then back into Memphis, but I may come up with something else entirely.
More details as I go.
Edwin and Jesus
I love my apartment. I didn’t expect to love it when I first moved in, but who ever expects love? I only chose it because it was cheap and I needed a place to stay quickly. When I moved in I was newly divorced and I was broke. So I signed a one year lease and took up residence in a little studio apartment on the third floor of an old ornate stone building in the Central West End. I moved in with my guitars, some hand-me-down furniture from my dad’s wife, and my boxer Grace.
There was one thing I liked about the place right off – it had a vaulted ceiling with wooden beams. I don’t know architecture or interior design, but I’m pretty sure the style is Tudor. It gives the place a chapel-like feel. I regard my apartment now as a kind of urban hermitage and I think the vaulted ceiling is the inspiration for that.
Over the years I’ve come to appreciate the Spartan, minimalist quality of the space. I could afford a larger space at this point, but I keep talking myself out of it. I always come to the same conclusion – I really don’t need anything bigger.
In addition to my own space, I’ve grown to love the building as well. An endless parade of kooks and college students march through it year after year, most of whom I develop an affection for that always takes me by surprise. There’s Lissy, the German girl, who loves The Ramones, hates people, and is quickly becoming a walking Charles Bukowski poem. There’s Peaches, the hipster, who sports a handlebar mustache, and has a collection of skateboards lining the walls of his apartment. Yes, his name is Peaches. No I didn’t hear it wrong. There’s Jenna, the artsy grandma, who used to live in Hollywood and claims to have worked in the television industry. She now spends her time decorating what was once the crappy, crab-grass infested yard on the side of the building. She’s turned it into a wonderful little urban garden and supplies the whole building with free tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.
My favorite, though, is Edwin. Edwin is a lonely, sick man, who is probably around 70 years old. He’s a rotund, African American man, who suffers from some kind of chronic respiratory ailment. He’s on oxygen. He’s also fiercely independent. I’ve learned to never offer him help, no matter how much he’s carrying, and no matter how long it takes him to get up the three flights of stairs to his apartment.
Unfortunately, Edwin and I got off to a bad start. Toward the end of Grace’s life, she became increasingly incontinent. She often didn’t make it downstairs to the yard before she had to go. One day, she urinated on Edwin’s welcome mat. Wanting to do the right thing, I picked up the mat and left him a note telling him what happened. I said I would wash it and return it. Sadly, the mat didn’t make it, it died on the operating table. It was too old and worn out and it disintegrated in the rinse cycle. So, I left Edwin another note, telling him I would now have to replace the mat altogether.
A few weeks went by and eventually, I hate to admit, I forgot all about the mat. Edwin didn’t. I ran into him one day at the mailbox. When he saw me he marched up to me and said, very sternly, “You never did replace my welcome mat. You said you would. Your dog ruined it and I want a new one.” He glared at me and then stormed off.
I wanted to get angry at him and tell him he was an asshole, but I had to admit that, while I thought he reacted a little strongly, he was right. I needed to make good on the damage my dog caused. So the next night I stopped at Walmart and picked out a welcome mat that looked as much like his old one as I could find. (For the record, I almost never go to Walmart. I’m happy to say that, to date, that was my last visit to the evil retailer.) I came home and placed the mat in front of his door with a note that read:
With that, my conscience was clear. I made my amends and assumed I had heard the last of the Welcome Mat Affair. A few weeks later, I ran into Edwin again. This time, he was all smiles. In fact, he was giddy.
“Mike, I just want to tell you, I love my new welcome mat, Mike. Thank you so much!”
Edwin is one of those people who uses your name at least two times in every sentence.
He went on. “It reminds of, what’s that cake, Mike? It has chocolate and coconut, Mike. Do you know what I’m talking about?”
“German Chocolate?”
“Yes, Mike! That’s it. It looks like a German Chocolate cake, Mike!”
I began to suspect that this was the nicest thing anyone had ever done for him, that no one had ever said to him, I was wrong, I’m sorry. This opened the door between us and we became fast friends.
Well, sort of. It’s a rather one-sided friendship. Edwin likes to talk. In fact, he has a favorite topic.
“Do you read your Bible, Mike?” he asked me one day as we passed each other in the stairwell.
I hesitated.
“Let me ask you this, Mike. Are you an atheist, Mike?”
Again, I hesitated. Do I tell him that, no, I don’t believe in a God who has a human personality, who intervenes in human affairs? That I believe in a collective, transcendent reality of which we are all parts? Do I tell him I believe the Buddhist idea that birth and death are just notions, that we’re all mislead into believing we’re waves when we’re really water…Oh, fuck it.
“No. I’m not.”
“Good, Mike! Good!”
He then went on to tell me that God is real, Satan is real, and that there’s a place called heaven as well as a place called hell. He promised not to preach to me anymore, but encouraged me to read my Bible.
“Read your Bible, Mike. That’s where the truth is, Mike.”
I told him I might do that but made no promises. As you might have guessed, we have this same conversation each time we see each other, and each time he vows to never preach to me again.
One day, he said that God told him I was going through a difficult time, which, I have to admit, threw me off balance. I was going through a very difficult time. I had just come out of a very messy and painful breakup. How did he know that? The question itself was a momentary lapse of reason on my part. There are a couple of ways to explain his statement. First, there was a loud argument one night in the yard. It was disruptive enough that Jenna overheard it and asked me the next day if everything was ok. Neighbors talk. That would give Edwin some real information. But the most likely explanation is that everyone is going through something. I could have had my wisdom teeth pulled that day. Damn, how did he know? My aunt in Lady Lakes, FL might be ill in the hospital. Whoa!
I’ve often wondered why I allow this proselytizing from Edwin. If it were anyone else I would shut him down and tell him I’m not interested. It’s not that I’m hostile to Christian beliefs. I love my own Catholic upbringing and sometimes I even envy those who can believe, who aren’t bedeviled – pun intended – by the same unanswerable questions as I am. Nonetheless, it seems that most Christians these days know to avoid the hard, relentless sell – it just isn’t effective.
Regarding Edwin and his preaching, I think I allow it because of his reaction to receiving the new welcome mat. In that moment, I saw how lonely he is. He has so little. Every day he huffs his way up and down the stairs and spends nearly all of his time cooped up in his apartment, on oxygen, watching religious programs. The only thing besides his faith that he ever seemed to care about was a little ragamuffin dog named Sweetie. He dearly loved her, but she died several years ago and he’s never gotten a new dog.
So, I let him preach. It seems to make him happy and it doesn’t take too much of my time. I never promise anything. I just don’t have the heart to tell him that, based on his world view, I’m on the Rush Hour Express to Hell, No Stops, All Doors Open.
Cracklin’ Rosie
My mom and I dancing at my second wedding. 1990
Today is the 10th anniversary of my mom’s death. I’ve been planning to write something about her for quite a while now, but I had to scrap every attempt because they were all too long – a reminder that there’s no easy way to tell her story. There’s no short version. I’m going to try one more time to be concise and get in the essential details in a reasonably sized article.
My mom grew up in a John Steinbeck novel. She was the fourth of five children born to sharecroppers in southern Missouri. She was raised in a home dominated by extreme poverty, the alcoholism of her father, and the religious fanaticism of her mother. And like so many children growing up in chaotic, dysfunctional homes, she learned it was safer to keep her thoughts and feelings to herself. Her best defense was to escape, not in alcohol or food, but in books. My mom found her solace in the printed word.
The Joads of East Prairie. Burt and Lois Cooper.
According to her oldest sister Suzie, she read every book on the public library book mobile and still hungered for more. Through her reading, my mom developed a love for the history and lore of the American South. She loved Gone With The Wind, but I don’t think it was the soap opera that attracted her. Instead, I think she identified with Scarlett O’Hara’s vow to never be poor again. I know she later loved To Kill A Mockingbird, and I often wonder if she loved William Faulkner and Flannery O’Connor, two authors I discovered later in life. I’m sure she did, we just never got around to discussing them.
Eventually my mom moved to the big city, got a menial office job downtown and learned to live on a can of chili a day. She tried to shed her identity as a poor farm girl. She made some friends and dated a little. Then she met my father, a dashing, energetic young man with a troubled past. Like her, he had a strong desire to rise above the constricting circumstances of his family.
It’s hard to imagine now what my mom’s reaction must have been to the band of gypsies, gangsters, and armed robbers that were my father’s family. They made it clear to her early on that, if she wanted to join the Krysl-Radosavich clan, she would have to do two things: become Catholic and learn to play poker. She did both. And despite her often crippling social fears, my mom held her own. She didn’t suffer fools lightly and they respected her for it. She became a good poker player, too. By the time the casinos began popping up all over the Midwest, my mom’s luck was legendary amongst her family and friends. She loved to gamble and never got in trouble with it because she usually won.
The Mod Squad. My father (left), my mother, and my dad’s best friend Jim Staggs.
She also learned another skill from my father’s family. To seem more urban and sophisticated, she learned to smoke cigarettes from my dad’s brother Ray. She had no way of knowing back then that she was starting a habit that would eventually take her life.
My parents married in 1956. As my father’s career in the grocery business began to take off, my mom eventually stopped working to focus on raising a family. In 1960 she gave birth to a son whom my parents named Frank. He was Frank Krysl the Fourth. Tragically, he was born with spinal bifida and only lived a few days. This was a loss my mom rarely talked about. My father was more open about it with me, but my mom, as she did with so many of the losses in her life, kept her feelings to herself. I honestly think that when she had a child who survived, she was so relieved that she chose to avoid the risk of trying to have any more children.
Being an only child was a mixed blessing for me — on the one hand I never had to compete for attention, I always had my own bedroom and my own possessions, and yet I always envied my friends who had siblings. I fantasized about being able to use the phrases “my brother” and “my sister” in sentences.
Growing up I was my mom’s friend and confidant. While my father was her equal in every way, his intelligence differed from my mom’s. He was more like Zorba The Greek – lusty, passionate, and generous to a fault. His wisdom came from a Mediterranean sense of giving and hospitality. I was more like my mom, I loved the details. I loved books. I loved movies and television, musicals and comedy. I was the only straight kid in South St. Louis who knew the difference between Leonard Bernstein and Elmer Bernstein. I knew the names of all five Marx brothers and I could name the hosts of the Tonight Show, in order, including the years they hosted the show. All thanks to my mom.
When I read a biography of Jim Morrison in 1980 I encountered the name of Friedrich Nietzsche for the first time, the mighty German philosopher who was one of Morrison’s heroes. I asked my mom if she had ever heard of him. She had, and she taught me the correct way to pronounce his name.
We influenced each other musically. Through me she learned to love Led Zeppelin and The Doors, and through her I learned to love Neil Diamond and Simon and Garfunkel. In fact, my favorite memories of my mom were of Saturday afternoons spent cleaning the house. I was expected to help her out to earn an allowance. To pass the time she would put on S&G’s Greatest Hits and sing along in her goofy, slightly ironic way to Kathy’s Song and Homeward Bound.
We disagreed about music, too. She never understood why I loved Black Sabbath and I never forgave her for loving Bob Seger.
While my mom was sometimes hard to know and could be unpredictable with her anger, she was above all, fun to be around. My friends loved her, my father loved her, and my daughter loved her.
Toward the end of her life my mom suffered a series of tragedies that took an enormous toll on her. Unfortunately, I believe they helped to hasten her end. She lost two of her sisters with whom she was very close. Both within a few years of each other. One died of lung cancer and the other was killed by a drunk driver on a remote highway near Fredericktown, MO.
Most cruelly of all, her brother Luke, who suffered from a debilitating fear of the medical system, chose to take his own life rather than seek medical treatment for an illness which was never diagnosed. At that time, my mom and her brother took turns caring for my grandmother, who suffered from Alzheimer’s. They each took shifts at my grandmother’s house. Luke had been sick for a while and my mother was very worried about him. On the last day of his life, he waited until my mom arrived, finished a cup of coffee, then went into the backyard and shot himself in the chest with a 12-gage shotgun.
That experience was a trauma from which she never recovered. Within two years she was diagnosed with lung cancer. My father fought valiantly to save her, but I honestly think my mom was ready to leave this life. Of course, I’m not certain of that, it’s more of an intuition than anything.
While my mom’s end was terribly sad, she lived a very happy life. She left a wake of joy and happiness with her humor and her kindness.
When my father asked me to deliver her eulogy, I was intimidated at first. How to sum up a life such as hers? Especially to a room full of people who knew her so well? I ended up telling many of the stories I’ve told here. I also added this passage from Thich Nhat Hanh, a Vietnamese Zen Buddhist who has always been an inspiration to me. In this passage he talks about the death of his own mother, and his reaction to speaking with her one night in a dream:
When I woke up my mind was at peace. I realized that my mother’s birth and death were concepts, not truth. The reality of my mother was beyond birth or death. She did not exist because of birth, nor cease to exist because of death. I saw the being and nonbeing are not separate. Being can exist only in relation to nonbeing, and nonbeing can exist only in relation to being. Nothing can cease to be. Something cannot arise from nothing. This is not philosophy. I am only speaking the truth.
That passage helped me to deal with the loss. It still does today. Nonetheless, my experience has been that the most acute feelings of loss come when I least expect them. There are moments when I want to talk to her in a way that’s purely detached from reason. The urge comes before I have a chance to remind myself of the hard fact that she is no longer in this life. It’s as though a more primitive part of my brain takes over. It assumes that we’ve just gone an extra long time without speaking to each other. I wanted to call her when Barrack Obama was elected. I wanted to tell her how fabulous her beloved granddaughter’s wedding was. I wanted to tell her how great Paul Simon was in concert.
Maybe the saddest thing of all is that she never once heard the name of her great-grandson. She would have smiled appreciatively, as I have, at what an outrageous and wonderful name Dominik Corno is. She would have marveled, too, at how well his personality fits his name.